Wine Collector’s Corner
Monday, December 12th, 2011
What did the third President of the United States and Chateau Rauzan-Segla have in common? They both were a fervent admirer of the estate’s wines! In fact, once Jefferson sampled the wines, he was so impressed that he ordered several cases worth.
Chances are when you first think of collectible Bordeaux, your mind goes the five “big gun” first growth estates. But as I’ve pointed out in prior columns, second through fifth growth Bordeaux such as Pontet Canet, Cos d’Estournel and the "Leoville “triplets” deserve some space in your cellar.
Chateau Rauzan-Segla is a second growth Bordeaux, the second wine of the renown first growth Chateau Margaux and owned by the fashion industry mogul Chanel group. The estate has its history interwoven in the reign of Louis XIV when Pierre de Rauzan acquired the estate in 1661. For generations henceforth, the Rauzan family operated the estate until the 1860’s when a phylloxera epidemic ravaged the region. The estate was acquired by Frederick Cruse in 1903, later sold in 1957. Between 1957 and the early 1980’s, the estate languished, partially due to lack of investment as well as frequent change in ownership.
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Tags: Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Rauzan Segla, first growth Bordeaux, Leoville Barton, Leoville Las Cases, Leoville Poyferre, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Pontet Canet, wine and food pairing
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Monday, November 7th, 2011
While it’s easy to focus only upon the outstanding wines produced by Giacomo Neri, owner and vintner of Casanova di Neri estate, you have to go back to 1970’s when his father Giovanni, a cereal dealer, invested in farm property. 1978 saw the first Brunello bottled and nine years later, the wine earned a gold medal at the Bordeaux expo. Clearly, Giovanni was on to something special. Son Giacomo, an agrarian expert, joined his father shortly thereafter however, Giovanni pass away unexpectedly in 1991 leaving Giacomo to inherit and run the estate.
Since that time, Giacomo has surrounded himself with dedicated family and staff who have supported his vision of developing the estate into an international star. Today, the Casanova di Neri estate proudly displays award winning 100% Sangiovese based Brunellos from his single vineyards Tenuta Nuova and Cerretalto. And his vineyard blend Brunello di Montalcino is always just a step behind.
So what are you to go for if you’re looking to accumulate some of these outstanding Brunellos in your cellar? I would probably consider splitting my resources between a stash of the vineyard blend Brunello di Montalcino and the two single vineyard gems, the Tenuta Nuova and Cerretalto. That offers you some comparison between the two approaches. I would target the ’04 and ’06 and keep the ’10 on your radar screen (not on the market till 2015). Reports from Montacino vintners such as Giancarlo Pacenti and Giacomo Neri are that the 2010 vintage may yield the best wines in at least a decade. Click on the link above to listen to Giacomo.
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Tags: Brunello, Casanova di Neri, Montalcino, Sangiovese
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Thursday, September 29th, 2011
Our recent video tour through the Barolo district took us to the hill of La Morra (where we lodged at Corte Gondina), overlooking the some of finest Nebbiolo vineyards in the world. You simply can’t speak of Barolo style wines without uttering the name Roberto Voerzio.
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Tags: Barolo, Brunate, Cerequio, dolcetto, La Morra, La Serra, Piedmont, Roberto Voerzio
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Thursday, August 4th, 2011
Domaine du Pegau is located in the Southern Rhone region of the famed Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The word “Pegau” is a wine jug discovered in the excavations of the 14th century Pope’s palace in Avignon. The history of the estate begins in the 17th century when, like so many farmers of that era, family members farmed both fruits and olives and a small plot of vines. Today, the estate is run by the Paul Ferraud and daughter Lawrence. There are two wines from Pegau that merit a place in your collection (or as a special gift). One is the Cuvee Reservee and the other, the rarer Cuvee da Capo.
The personality of the wines is largely dependent upon the blending or “l’assemblage” of grapes from any number of eleven separate vineyards, each with their own profile and character. Historically, thirteen different grape varieties were permitted in blends but as of 2009, eighteen were permitted.
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Tags: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Domaine du Pegau, Grenache, Mouvedre, Rhone, Syrah
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Tuesday, June 28th, 2011
Founded in 1921 by Paolo Scavino in the Barolo Langhe township of Castiglione Falletto, the estate (www.paoloscavino.com) is now under the stewardship of son Erico and his two daughters Enrica and Elisa. This is a family that inherently believes in allowing terroir to express the best in their wines.
The eleven townships that comprise the Langhe region not only produce the best Barolo’s from the Nebbiolo grape in the world, but proudly display the world renown white truffles from Alba and a cuisine that pairs with wines like no other. Add in beef dishes from Piedmontese cattle, game, wild herbs and mushrooms, tajarin, agnolotti and hazelnut based cakes and you have the definition of all that define what’s best in cuisine and wine in this region.
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Tags: Barolo, Nebbiolo, paolo scavino, Scavino
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Monday, May 16th, 2011
There’s something special about a terroir that speaks of the history of the Roman era, battles won and lost in war and in everyday life against the elements. This is the home of the Numanthia wines, the estates located in the hills of northwest Spain near the village of Toro, carved out by the Duero River not far from the Portuguese border. Numanthia has been making wine here since 1880, the name in tribute to the town Numancia, renown for its fierce resistance against an invading Roman legions in 133BC. Sporting a harsh climate with very hot, dry summers and cold winters and an unforgiving soil, the vines are challenged to resource every ounce of nutrient and moisture available. Their resistance to the devastating 19th century phylloxera epidemic is a testament to their hearty genetic strain.
Wines have been made in Toro for nearly two centuries, the Tinta de Toro grape from the Tempranillo grape, being the signature grape today. These grapes yield wine with an intense and complex character.
There are three “Numanthia” wines to consider. The entry level and most affordable is the Numanthia-Termes Toro Termes, a wine that tends to show the vibrancy and freshness of black and red fruit along with tasty oak. Grapes are sourced from 30 year old vines, macerated for approximately 21 days with light pump over and aged from 16 months in French oak barrels. The 2004 & 2005 vintage is a standout for this wine, big and muscular displaying notes of dark, black fruit, licorice and graphite, and earthiness. Both should go out another 5-8 years. The 2006 offers notes of black plum, chocolate, and tobacco and should age another 5-7 years. You can find them in the range of $50-65. The more recent vintages of ’07 and ’08 tend to be a bit more simple and probably have only a few years more on them.
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Tags: Numanthia, spain, Tempranillo, Tinta de Toro, Toro
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011
Tenuta Valdicava produces some of the finest Brunello on the planet, ranging from the Rosso di Montalcino and Brunello Valdicava to the revered single vineyard Riserva Madonna del Piano. The Riserva was the first single vineyard wine to be produced in Montalcino in 1977.
Located in the Montosoli region of Montalcino, the estate has been producing 100% Sangiovese based wine since 1968. With only 10 hectares (~20 acres) under vine, owner and winemaker Vincenzo Abbruzzese, perhaps the most elite and exacting of the region’s vintners, micro manages his vines and grapes, exposing them to maximum sunshine and airflow in order to avoid rot. The wines are aged in large Slovonian oak casks, providing the optimal oak balance.
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Tags: Brunello, Montalcino, Valdicava
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Monday, March 14th, 2011
In what promises to be the best back to back vintages from the Montalcino region in twenty years, you’ll have a wide range of choices from the 2006 (and 2007) Brunellos to add to your cellar. Both the vintages have their share of top candidates, with many destined for the cellar. In fact, some of these wines may age for the next fifteen to twenty years! …………..and oh what delights they should be! The revered 1997 Brunellos are drinking beautifully today with the best still having some years ahead. The Wine Inquirer will be travelling to the region later this summer in order to taste the wines and meet with select vintners.
Meanwhile, depending upon your budget and needs (ok, my wife calls them wants), there are several outstanding wines from top vintners from which to choose. Even better, these wines are only a fraction of the price of first growth Bordeaux or Grand Cru Burgundy.
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Tags: Brunello, Montalcino, Siro Pacenti, Tuscany
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Monday, February 7th, 2011
For any serious collector of Bordeaux, the so called “Super Seconds” should be on your list. These are wines that while officially classified as second growths according to the French classification, can equal first growth quality, especially in great vintage years such as 2000, 2003, 2005 and the more recent 2009. Cos d’Estournel from the St. Estephe region is one of these wines. While the ’00, ’03 and ’05 all retail for ~$200, the former two have seen moderate appreciation since release while the latter has been stable. The ’09, thus far, is commanding the highest prices yet, around $300, and reports are that it is truly a monster of a wine capable of aging for the next several decades.
The 2000 ( that vintage coined as the Bordeaux of the century), comprised of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, displays lovely notes of blackberry, currant, licorice and crushed flowers on a velvety smooth bed of fine tannins. The wine is now ready for drinking and should be enjoyed easily for the next decade. The 2003 is blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc and is one of those unique blends of power and elegance. With an inky dark purple hue, the wine exhibits deep blackberry and currant, pain grille, licorice, incense and cut flowers. Tannins are like velvet and the finish is long and impressively smooth. This is a wine that has at least more two decades of life written all over it. 2005, believe it or not, brought still another “Bordeaux vintage of the new century,” this time a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. This is a wine, once again, that blends power with elegance, gorgeous aromas of cassis, blackberry, spices and toasted oak along with some leather and I swear I smell a vague hint of orange peel!! The tannins in this vintage are deep and powerful yet do not overwhelm, their structure velvety smooth. This wine, if stored properly, should no problem aging well for the next few decades.
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Tags: Bordeaux, Chateau Cos d'Estournel
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Monday, January 3rd, 2011
With over twenty years of wine know how under their belt, Sparky and Sarah Marquis continue to push the quality boundries of their outstanding line of wines. With creative names such as The Boxer, Two Left Feet, The Scooter, Blue Eyed Boy, Gigglepot, The Violinest and Enchanted Path, this line of South Australian wines offers up top quality at every price level.
In just a little over five years, Sparky and Sarah have launched their “baby,” Mollydooker brand (Aussie for lefthanded) to the acclaim of experts and consumers alike. Situated in the southern Australia region of McLaren Vale, the vineyard occupies 116 acres of prime land, half of which is dedicated to Shiraz with the remainder Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot and Semillon and Chardonnay. Supported by a trademark vineyard watering program, the vines are nurtured and coaxed into producing grapes with an ideal fruit weight that translates into rich and velvety wines.
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Tags: Mollydooker, South Australia
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